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Surfing 101: Basic safety precautions that make a world of difference

Gabriel Sutton | Contributing Writer

Issue date: 11/11/09 Section: Op/Ed
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Five weeks ago, I went surfing at Wrightsville Beach.  A lightning storm showed up and oddly enough, the clouds were getting stronger as they circulated towards shore.  In my eight years of surfing, I had never seen this happen in a front that moved from east to west.  I looked towards Crystal Pier and saw lightning striking the water only a few miles south.  I paddled in, remembering the lessons my older brother had taught me years ago. 

1.  Know your limits.  If you have no experience with surfing and you are invited to paddle out on a day when swells are over five feet, do not do it; you will not have fun.  Furthermore, if you do not know how to duck dive, you will end up swimming past the breakers, which increases the likelihood of your leash breaking and also overworks your body.  After you finally get the courage to catch a wave, you will probably just fall and get pulled in, starting the whole process over again.  Do not let pride persuade you to gamble with your life.

2.  Look for a rip current; if it is too strong, do not paddle out.  If you feel that the swell is too good to pass up, paddle out where the drift will pull you away from the pier. 

3. "15 for thunder, 30 for lightning."  If you hear thunder, paddle in and wait at least 15 minutes before you paddle back out.  If you see lighting, wait 30. 

4. Do not surf alone; accidents do happen.  In some cases, the power of the wave will throw you in such a way that you will not have any idea where your board is until it smacks you in the face.  It is always good to have someone watching your back if anything unexpected happens.

5. Always wear a leash; law enforcement has had no sympathy for surfers who paddle out without a leash, as they should be.  A leash has little effect on your surfing ability.  The guys who do not wear them are just trying to look cool. Moreover, the leashes prevent you from losing your board and tiring yourself out by swimming.  They also prevent your board from injuring others if it were not kept in close proximities.
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